Visiting Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

This trip really touched me. Perhaps it was the fascinating totally differentness of the place. I also think it was having so many days to wander off the grid, lost in my thoughts, focusing on discovery and nurturing my curiosity. Whatever it was it definitely reignited my love of travel again. Posting this final batch of pictures, closes the trip. That makes me a little sad. I’ve been enjoying looking at the pictures, processing, researching and reading more and just wallowing in travel zen, but onward, so here you go!

Ashgabat, the capital city of Turkmenistan, is a place filled with new giant white marble buildings, that feel modern and aspirational towards the future. It has strangely wide boulevards and oddly empty streets. It all feels a little other worldly, but I’m not exactly sure why.

Where as people in the north of the county were so friendly and eager to connect, the strict authoritarian control clearly kept people in Ashgabat wary of strangers. Almost no one would allow me to take a picture, but my memories are filled with images of all the incredible traditional dress the women wore everywhere all the time. Speckles of rich color were such a contrast to all the white.

Since independence from the Soviet Union in 1992, the leaders of Turkmenistan have been trying to create their own vision for the city and country. In Ashgabat that meant tearing down Soviet style buildings and constructing hundreds of ornate white marble buildings decorated in gold that glisten powerfully in the sun. It’s over the top and so hard to describe, but I couldn’t get enough of it.

My tour group left and I stayed for four extra days by myself. With no internet outside my hotel, it was travel old style. No ability to keep googling ideas of where to go, so instead I followed my curiosity and walked and walked.

At night the buildings are lit up in bright over the top Vegas style. In a country with lots of oil and natural gas energy consumption is clearly not a worry.

The city holds the Guinness Book of Records title for most white marble on earth. It’s said that the white is for love and luck. It also reflects the brutal sun. Temps reach up to 150’ in the summer.

The first post Soviet leader was a quirky man. He loved making Guinness records like most fountains, tallest flag pole and largest indoor ferris wheel. And also coming up with random rules like saying all cars have to be white, outlawing dogs because he didn’t like the way they smell, the use of makeup by television presenters, gold teeth and beards. (Upon thought, I bet the banning of beards is to control Islamic fundamentalism, but no one told me that.)

Large gold statues and huge pictures of the post Soviet leaders are up around the city remind everyone who is in control. With tight authoritarian rule that stifles free speech, adding to the lack of English speakers, I couldn’t get the real story of how life was there. My perspective is led by one great travel book, two guides, and a long conversation I had with a local at the American Center. It’s not enough to really understand which is probably why I remain rather mystified. I’m so glad I went though, but it’s always good to be reminded how different things are around the world.

Thank you Turkmenistan for a WONDERFUL visit!

Uzbekistan Photos

After all my posts about Uzbekistan, I finally get why you think I’m always traveling. I’ve been back for 3 weeks, but I’ve been savoring the memories and posting photos in smaller batches to process the trip slowly. I enjoy that many people seem to like my posts, but in reality this exercise is for me. Paring down a 1000 photos and organizing and captioning them so I can remember the details is hard work, but if I didn’t post on here I’d just have an endless unstructured iPhone photo scroll and all the interesting things I learned would fade away.

Thanks for joining me on this journey.

Click HERE to see the rest of my Uzbekistan pictures

Giggling about the possibility of getting Tik Tok famous

 

That time when the ladies at the restaurant were looking over my shoulder checking out the pictures on my phone and giggling, then asked me to take a picture of them and when I did they giggled more I heard Tik Tok amidst their Turkmen words. If only I could make them Tik Tok famous.

 I've wanted to travel the Silk Road and see the beautiful tiles in Uzbekistan for many years and even with all the expectation this trip better than I could have hoped for. I'll always remember the wide smiles of the locals, the incredible architecture, the tastes that showed the way the constant flow of people and things on those trading routes wove together many different cultures in a lasting way, and the way thousands of years of history through many empires started to become real and not just something I read about in a book. Also, my year of Russian classes finally had some use even if I can only remember about 6 words.

Daily Life is Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

 

The irony of Defying Gravity coming up on my phone as I look at a group young Turkmen college aged women and ponder their totally controlled unfree lives.

Feeling New York love in Turkmenistan

When I travel I definitely like being from New York City! I love when people ask where I’m from I can just say that and don’t event need to say America/United States, especially when saying my country’s name is almost an ugly word these days. Then one night in Ashgabat when I said New York the waiter’s face lit up and he mumbled something that made me think that maybe bar had some NYC connection. Later I noticed Broadway musical wall paper and other little details like this mural. Yes, the greatest city in the world…

NYC fans in Turkmenistan

Spotted this t-shirt on a woman waiting for the bus in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, asked to take a picture, which led to a lovely conversation. She had just gotten back from 6 months visiting her daughter in NYC. Her daughter left Turkmenistan after college to teach in China. Next stop she headed to the States and now is a NYC public school principal in a primarily Chinese district and loves it there. Also the two pictures she showed me from her trip to NY were of her trip to the Statue of Liberty and when she went skydiving! Yay America! Yay immigrants!

Visiting the American Center in Turkmenistan

I went to this American Center in Ashgabat, that the Embassy must run. It’s a library and a place with full internet. I guess it builds good American feelings. Anyhow when I walked in they were doing a program for a room of mostly high school kids with the finance guy from the US Embassy. They invited me to join and sitting their listing to America the Beautiful and reading the inspiring words on the walls made me suddenly burst into tears. The Turkmen people there look to America as an alternative to their authoritarian country, and I just felt so sad that I’m not sure we really stand for that stuff right now.

A guy closer to my age wanted to talk with me after. He was so down on his fellow countryman for not caring and just wanted to talk news with people. It was pretty interesting and moving. I felt bad having nothing good to say about the US these days.

 

Got my first proposal (I think???) The guy in the back wants to come to America and needs a Green Card. As you can see, the guy in the front thought it was hilarious. It’s amazing how much can be conveyed even when you don’t speak the same language.

New Yorkers meeting each other in Samarkand, Uzbekistan.

Yup, this guy must have heard Rhoda and I talking, because he came up to tell us he lived in New York City. Brooklyn to be exact. He grew up here and was home visiting. NYC has a big Uzbek population and many people here have been telling us they have family there.

Third times a charm in Istanbul, Turkey

This was my third trip to Istanbul. My last one was only two years ago, so memories were still fresh, but the thing about a big, energetic, fun, exciting, spread out over two continents, city is there is always more to see and new things to discover. I walked 30k steps a day up and down the hills gathering new insights and also enjoying some favorites. 

Things I love. 

• Call to prayer ringing out all over from 3000 mosques around the city. 
• The cats who are everywhere and so affectionate because everyone feeds them, including me. 
• The incredible fashionable residents. 
• The ferries and other boats buzzing around in every direction in the rivers. 
• That just about every restaurant has outdoor seating, which makes street life feel so vibrant. 
• The hammam baths and scrubs. So luxurious and perfect for after a long flight! 
• Fresh pomagranate juice. 
• The food, where there is so much flavor, but not scary hot spices. 

My stepfather told me once when I was little that Istanbul was the most beautiful city in the world and I think he is right. I’m glad those words inspired me to go and now that I’ve been able to get to know it. Bye bye and hope to see you soon.

Click HERE to see my full set of pictures

Farewell 2024, Its been Grand!

Cutting it to the wire for my annual photo collage highlighting big moments in my year. All in all 2024 was a decent year. A few things could have worked out better. President Harris??? But when I look back I spent lots of time with friends, got to continue to do good fulfilling work in NoHo and continued to keep my mind open and try new things.

Happy New Year! May good things lie ahead for us all!

Happy New Year’s from Biggar, Scotland

 

Happy New Year’s from Biggar, Scotland.

In many countries, December 31 is known as New Year’s Eve; in Scotland, it’s Hogmanay. The celebration involves torchlight processions, bonfires, bagpipes, fireworks, lively street parties, several.

Historians believe that many fascinating Hogmanay customs and traditions have their roots in pagan festivals such as the Norse Winter Solstice, the Viking Yule, and the Gaelic Samhain.

Also!!! Scotland’s influence on New Year's Eve extends across the world as the famous Scottish poet, Robert Burns, wrote (in 1788) the famous 'Auld Lang Syne' which is sung with such gusto when the clock strikes midnight, wherever you may be.

Political Campaigning in Michigan

Spending a week in Michigan door knocking for Kamala was fantastic! Rhea and I volunteered at 4 offices: Detroit, Southfield, Ann Arbor and Saginaw. It was political tourism at its best. We knocked on 409 doors and got to meet lots of people, hear about local issues and explore the state. We also got to meet lots of other energetic volunteers. Michiganders are friendly and willing to talk no matter what side they were on.

A few pictures to show the experience

Dabls Mbad African Bead Museum - A Detroit Creative Treasure

Detroit always has sweet little surprises. Today I visited Dabls Mbad African Bead Museum and got a chance to the artist who has spent years creating the art and selling LOTS of beads from around the world.

The story is 23 years ago Olayami Dabls came to the corner of Grand River and West Grand Blvd with a vision to create a space for his community to understand the immense power of their African heritage.

Occupying almost an entire city block, the Dabls Mbad African Bead Museum houses 18 outdoor installations as well as the African Bead Gallery, N'kisi House and African Language Wall.

It all was WOW!

 

Seattle Pictures

 

I hadn’t been to Seattle since 1991. It was great to come to explore the new parts of the city and visit so many neighborhoods. It’s a great city! Thanks International Downtown Association for having your annual conference there and giving me a chance to visit again.

Photos from Seattle 

Seattle's Working Waterfront

One thing I thought was really cool about Seattle was its vibrant working waterfront. One activity at the International Downtown Association conference was a boat tour through the ports, which gave a chance to learn more. With cruise terminals on one end, a huge redesign of the waterfront section of center city Seattle and a giant container port, there is A LOT going on there and as the grandchild of a freighter company owner, I soaked it all up. Best fun fact: the largest export out of the port is hay to Asia.

 

Travels in Japan

I’ve been back for 7 weeks and I still can’t get Japan out of my mind. I keep wondering what it was that grabbed me so hard. While the architecture, history, people, temples and shrines were different and enjoyable to see, they aren’t it. I think it’s that I’m a curious person who is constantly looking for little new to me things. In Japan they were everywhere. The workings of comprehensive transit system was fascinating. One example is that every metro station plays a different jingle before they close the train doors in station. The food was so varied and the little sweets were cute, pretty and unusual and everything was cheap and fresh. I could walk through the food halls for days and never get enough. Quality of life stuff that NY struggles so much with like garbage are organized and practically invisible. I mean, they don’t even put corner cans out and Japanese carry their trash home to dispose of properly!

The fashion scene was top notch and a fun comparison to my NY work neighborhood. Between there being beautiful Asian design and a fascination with the preppy look I grew up with and the endless vintage stores selling things like US college sweatshirts, it all was just wow!

Mostly in general I haven’t thought that much about Japan. It seems from talking to people I know, many have always dreamed of going to Japan. That wasn’t me. Sure I always want to go everywhere, but I thought Japan was so expensive that I really never thought about going. Well, what a surprise to arrive and find out that because of a strong Dollar and weak Yen, Japan actually seemed cheap. That meant I could try everything!

I had three wonderful weeks to soak it all in, but it just left me wanting more. There are so many things I don’t quite understand yet. And so many food items I didn’t get to try. The 13 hour flight and 13 hour time difference probably means I won’t be going back any time soon, but I’m grateful for the time I had. And I’m also having fun seeing Japanese things in NY with my new eyes.

CLICK HERE TO SEE MY ENTIRE JAPAN PHOTO ALBUM

Cherry Blossoms

The cherry blossoms finally started blooming, 15 days late! giving me a chance to see how locals celebrate Sakura. The tradition is picnicking in the parks under the blossoms. It was also the first warm weather after a long hard winter, so the parks were packed!! It’s quite a scene.

Japan Transit is AMAZING!

There were so many interesting aspects of Japan and I’m going to try to share and process my thoughts on here.

One really great thing was the transit system. Tokyo was the biggest and most complex, but all the different systems around the country are connected and worked well together. As a tourist I could buy a rechargeable IC card to use for payment of all the trains and buses in all the cities I went to. This meant I never had to struggle figuring out the fares and could just jump on and off of whatever was around. This is even more incredible with the fact that the different lines are privately owned and run and yet can work together!

Although one of the challenges of Japan is that there isn’t as much English everywhere, the trains have electronic screens and switch between Japanese and English. Signage is clear and SOOOO helpful. I heard that there was a major investment in this before the 2020 Olympics for all the visitors who never came.

Schedules, fares, platforms, train cars, stairs, escalators & elevators, and station exits are all well marked and integrated with Apple and Google Maps, so when you get directions all the details are included. Station exit numbers are clearly marked, so people know where to get out. Genius!!

They also clearly mark the direction the train is going, show the next stops and suggestion how many minutes it will take to get to each station.

The crowds of people using the transit is INSANE, but well mannered Japanese wait patient in marked lines till everyone gets off before they shuffle in.

I don’t have anything extra interesting to say about the bullet trains except they move so fast, but don’t really feel different and the ride is really smooth. And as you would expect they are comfy and plush with lots of legroom.